Ermes Pavese Bianco "Ventanni" 2013

In 1993, Ermes Pavese made the bold decision�still uncommon in this corner of the Valle d�Aosta�to begin bottling his own wine rather than selling off the fruit from his tiny then-two-hectare farm to the local co-operative. To commemorate the 20th anniversary of that fortuitous moment, the family held back a portion of their 2013 production to be released later as a library wine, and we are now the lucky recipients of a pristinely aged Pri� Blanc from Ermes�s meticulously tended extreme-altitude vineyards. Pri� with a bit of bottle age begins to round out, although its rapier-like acidity remains the wine�s predominant structural element, and the fruit undergoes a Riesling-esque transformation into gentle petrol. With this 2013, a gunflint-like smoke�always a terroir marker in Blanc de Morgex�has taken center stage, relegating the savory citrus and stone fruits to a background role, but the wine remains scintillating and exuberantly energetic.