For all the talk of natural wines, sometimes all we're really talking about is a return to tradition. Dora Forsoni and Patrizia Castiglioni of Poderi Sanguineto make phenomenal Rosso and Vino Nobile di Montepulicano from estate-grown Prugnolo Gentile (Sangiovese Grosso) and smaller amounts of Mammolo and Canaiolo. All the wines are vinified in cement vats using ambient yeasts and matured in large, old. Tartrate-encrusted botti. Patrizia and Dora don't present their wines at the Vini Veri wine fair. They present in the Vino Nobile Consortium tasting at Vinitaly. They don't consider their wine ?natural wine.? They just call it ?wine.?